Tre Cime

Sunday, 23 March 2014 11:03
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Tre Cime Northfaces, Michi Wohlleben and Ueli Steck climbed for the first time in Winter the 3 Faces in a singel push. 

Text, Michi Wohlleben

Together with Ueli Steck I did the first Wintertrilogy of the three north faces of the Tre Cime, last monday and tuesday 17th/18th march.

We climb the routes "Cassin" at the Cima West, "Comici" at the Grande Cime and "Innerkofler" with starting in the north face at the small Cime non-stop. The classic lines of the north faces always to the summit and descending the normal route.

I had this project since a long time, but it never became reality. Last tuesday I wrote Ueli an SMS if he is motivated to try the Trilogy. After me checking out the snow conditions two days later, we decided to give it a try. With this plan we met in Misurina for a pizza and made the last plans for the try. Afterwords we drove with skidoos up to the Auronzo winterhut.

The next morning we started into the "Cassin" (8 or 6+/A0, 650m). Actually we planned to climb it within 6-12h depending on the conditions, but with running belays, simultaneus and fast climbing we reached the top already after 3h37min. We were quite surprised but definetly very happy! For the descent we needed about one hour. Our friend Lukas was already waiting in the col between Cima West and Cima Grande and made water for us. After a small break we descended to the start of the "Comici" (7 or 6/A0 500m). The small buttress and the first pitch we climbed without rope and then we went for it again. With climbing always very long stretcher pitches and simulclimbing in the upper easier part we also saved a lot of time and stand after only 4h47min with the last daylight on the top of the grande Cime. Although I knew the descent from severel summer ascents quite good, with all the snow and the darkness, it looked very different. But we managed to reach the start of the north face of the small cime at about 21.00 o'clock. Again we were welcomed of our friend Flo with coke and warm tee. We ate some bars, drank a lot and started into the last route. I think we were in a kind of tunnel and the end of it was not so far anymore, but still to climb a route like this in the night, with crampons and gloves was a little bit a mental thing. Until the saddle of the north face we followed a route which name is not official, classical alpine mixed terrrain, with a small boulder over a big cornice. Up to the saddle we climbed the "Innerkofler" (IV+) to the summit of the small Cime. We topped out at about 00:20 o'clock and were really really happy and also a bit exhausted - for sure.

Actually we counted with 30 hours or even more but like this we neededca. 16h (15h42min) from start of the Cima West to the top of the small cime -

we were really surprised because well known partys normally needed in history between 10-20h for one route. But we have to say we really pushed forward, we went extremely light, no rap line, no stove, no hardshell, nothing. And we climbed really fast, for example 7 stretcher pitches in the cassin...and we had the best support of our two friends, without them it would have been much harder!

Sometimes there are these days were everything is perfect - the conditions are good, the team is good and he head plays well.

At 02:00 o'clock we reached the Auronzo Hut again, woke up Flo, who was already sleeping, opened a 2006er bottle of Vine and heard with Ueli's iPhone the song "Days like this" from the Toten Hosen.