As a real celebration of worldwide mountaineering, the Piolets d’Or undertakes to its defend fundamental values. This revitalised 17th annual event will bring together mountaineers from all four corners of the Earth in a veritable festival. Conferences, debates, films, meetings and other cultural activities will be shared between Courmayeur (Italy) and Chamonix-Mont-Blanc (France), from 22nd to 25th April 2009.
Ueli Steck und Simon Anthamatten are nominated because of their great first ascent in the alpin style of Tengkampoche Northface (6500m), Khumbu Valley, Nepal. For Ueli Steck this is – after 2005 – his second nomination. In 2005 he was nominated for his Khumbu-Express (Nepal): Solo first ascent of Cholatse Northface (6640m), solo first ascent of east face of Tawoche (6505m) and north-west-face of Ama Dablam (break off at 5900m, due to bad weather).
Last year the „Piolet d’Or“ ground to a halt. Due to the critical view expressed by several former winners of the price the organisers were not able to set up a new concept on time. But the organisers took this criticism very seriously. They put together new rules and a new definition of the award. For the first time the AAJ is officially supporting the Piolets d’Or, in keeping with the new spirit of promoting a taste for adventure, a desire for exploration and the art of climbing summits, rather than the spirit of competition.
The purpose of the Piolets d'or is to introduce the big climbs of the year achieved throughout the mountains ranges of the world. Its aim is to celebrate the taste for adventure and the desire for exploration in the art of climbing summits. It is a celebration of Mountaineering. The spirit of the Piolet d’Or finds its inspiration in the rich history of mountaineering. It is about celebrating the spirit of a rope party of sharing and solidarity, by promoting the beauty of an individual or collective act. In modern alpinism, the style and the means used is more important than the accomplishment of an objective. It Is not any more about succeeding at all cost, using financial tricks, techniques (oxygen, fixed ropes, altitude carriers, drugs…) or massive human means (Sherpa, altitude carriers). The Piolets d’Or give a value to everyone’s imagination in the research of innovative itineraries, encourages saving all means, and building on the experience in the process.
Criteria for assessment of performances
The climbs will be estimated without any discrimination of origin, on the basis of several criteria studied separately as well as a whole:
Elegance of the style
Spirit of exploration: originality of the itinerary and/or of the summit, creativity, innovation
Involvement and autonomy
High technical level
Pertinence of the itinerary considering the obvious dangers
Saving of means
Transparency in the used means
Respect of men, partners, and members of other rope parties, carriers and local persons involved
Respect of the environment
Respect of future generations of mountaineers by leaving them the possibility to live the same adventures
The members of the Jury are all personalities in the world of mountaineering. Renowned mountaineers and journalists, they are informed and impassioned.
Doug Scott (GB) : president of the jury – Alpinist
Dario Rodriguez (Spain) – Journalist - Desnivel
Dodo Kopold (Slovakia) - Alpinist
Jim Donini (USA) - Alpinist
Peter Habeler (Austria) – Alpinist
Yong ImDuck (Korea) - Journalist
The six nominees of the 17th edition of the Piolets d’Or are:
First ascent of the South-West face of Kamet (7756m, India) A mixed Japanese team composed of Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi opened up the unclimbed South-west face of Kamet in alpine style, between 26th September and 7th October 2008. Name of Route : Samurai Direct. Height of Climb: 1800m. Difficulties declared: mixed M5+, ice 5+.
New Route on the South face of Nuptse I (7861m, Nepal) Frenchmen Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon Rappaz achieved a route on the south face of Nuptse I in alpine style between the 27 and 30 October 2008. Name of Route: Are you experienced ? Height of climb: 2000m. Difficulties declared: mixed M5, ice 90°.
First complete ascent of the East face of Cerro Escudo (2450m, Chili) American Dave Turner opened the route solo in 34 days on one of the most difficult Big Walls in the world, the East face of Cerro Escudo, starting in December 2007 and finishing in January 2008. Name of Route : Taste the pain. Height of Climb : 1200m. Difficulty declared: aid climb A4+.
New route on the North face of Kalanka (6931m, India) In September 2008, the Japanese Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano achieved a new route on the North face of Kalanka in alpine style, which had never been ascended in one go in September. Height of Route: 1800m. Difficulty declared: mixed M5.
First Ascent of the North face of Tengkampoche (6500m, Nepal) The Swiss Ueli Steck and Simon Anthamatten climbing alpine style opened up a new route and first ascent abutting the North face of Tengkampoche, between 21st and 24th April 2008. Nom of Route : Checkmate. Height of Climb : 2000m. Difficulties declared : mixed M7, ice 5, rock 6/A0.
Linked technical routes in Denali (6194m, Alaska) The Japanese Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Katsutaka Yokoyama succeeded in linking the routes Isis Face, the descent route the Ramp, and a climb back up the Slovak Direct route in one trip from 11 - 18 May. Total ascent : 2350m (Isis Face) and2900m (Slovak Direct). Difficulty declared : Alaska grade 6.
Please find more information about the award under www.pioletsdor.com
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