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Back in the Yosemite National Park II |
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Friday, 28 May 2010 16:49 |
Somehow it's not running. We stop on the Sickleledge. This doesn't work. We have cold fingers and the weather does not look at all inviting. We abseil and do the same route again. It runs better. We optimize our system. Again we abseil. This time we are satisfied. We are on beam. It's enough for today. Time to go to the coffee shop...
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
The weather is good: 20 percent chance of shower in the afternoon. We climb up to the Dolt Tower, the first eleven pitches. The system is slowly but surely going to improve. 25 minutes to the Sickleledge. 55 minutes to the Dolt Tower. Today it was definitively better the better day. Nevertheless: the first meter up to the Sickleledge are strange. The Stoveleg Cracks move on simply, just good. Wir move forward. It's exciting. I am already very happy with our performance. More than I have expected. This does not mean that we are going further. No. On the contrary! For myself I have added a further puzzle piece. Last year a free climb on El Cap. This year a speed record. The whole system, which we use, is a complete other technique than I used on my northface record ascents. To climb fast The Nose is the most efficient in a team. To climb Eiger, Matterhorn or Jorasses is as a soloist the most fastest way to reach the summit. And this is what brings me further. One experience more in my backpack. We have to take advantage of my strenghts. Alex has to take advantage of his strenghts. All this is what it is about: to work good together - which works amazingly good. We are both soloists but we have understood each other very well as from the very beginning.
The weather looks to get better and we hope, that the Headwall will get dry until our next attempt.
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