Detial report: Success on Cho Oyu Print Email
Wednesday, 11 May 2011 13:27
May 4. Today everything is different than the weatherforcast predicted. The wind is blowing and it snows. Announced was clear and sunny weather. It’s clear: May 4 and 5 should be good for a summit attempt. From May 6 on the forecast announces more humid weather. Yesterday I observed a lenticular cloud over the summit and I could not really trust the weather forecast. You can not close your eyes, the weather always happens outside and not in the office in Bern. But the office in Bern in an indispensable help. Without Meteotest I would not have summitted Shisha Pangma.

We decide to go for an attempt tomorrow. On May 5 we try the summit. If it doesn’t work, we stay another day. We ordered the yaks for May 9 to leave ABC. On May 10 we go to Everest base camp, with or without summit on Cho Oyu. Our main goal is Everest. The latest on May 10 we have to leave. The countdown begins. Somehow this thought is liberating. After having lied for hours in my tent it is good to know, that we continue. To wait eternally for good weather at ABC is not an option. Now Cho Oyu, then Everest and then home!

The weather calms down. Bevor lunch we meet another expedition at ABC. We met them at Nyalam. Now they arrived at ABC too. It is entertaining at this mountain. There are many people but all of the are in a good mood. Additionally there a functioning heating system in the main tent. We are a little bit jealous. We have the same heating model as on Shisha Pangma and also here the system strikes because of the altitude. The cook explains me he tested in Kathmandu. After all it works properly at 30 degrees at 1600 meters above sea level.

At 12 pm it’s lunch time, after we start to pack. I am happy. This time we do not have to go as workhorses. All material is already up. Only a few things. I allow me the luxury of a second sleeping bag to add to my extra thin and light other sleeping bag. These extra 800 gramms must be. We have to pay attention: here it’s about acclimatising not about time. If we climb the normal route on Cho Oyu in 2 days or in 10 hours it doesn’t matter. We have to get fit for Everest.

The ascent to the camp at 6850 meters is ardous. There is snow on the whole way. Another expedition, which also has planned the summit for May 5, has left ABC already two days ago. First 6400 meters, then 7200 meter and today camp 3 at 7600 meters. In the meantime it has snowed again and we the nice pleasure to trudge through the snow. Luckily our backpacks are light and we take it easy. We have no stress. The glacier, which we pass on the edge, is remarkable. Bizarre peaks and towers rise while shimmering in a blue colour to the cloudless sky. Most beautiful weather. We make a pause before the steep ascent to camp 1. I brought a tin of coke. After 10 minutes we move on. We recognise two alpinists which came down form the middle camp to camp 1. Good for us so we will find further up a halfway made track. But this track is anything other than the expected redemption. The steps are too far away because they were made by going down. But they help a little bit. After our arrival at the middle camp at 6850 meters we cook something and try to get some sleep. The alarm clock is set for midnight. A long day lies ahead of us. Midnight comes too fast. I would have liked to stay longer in my warm sleeping bag. Now a ice cold breeze blows into my face. It’s terribly cold. Kari Kobler warned me that this would be a cold mountain. Now I am getting aware of it.

The monotonous tracking starts. Alternatively Don or I go ahead. At 3.30 am we reach camp 2 at 7200 meter. We look after an empty tent to have some rest. I put my feet in the vestibule because I did not take off my crampons. Don is sitting in the rear corner with outstretched legs. While he is complaining about his cold feet mine are nicely warm. I have a heating system in my shoes, which are running on the stage. Now I take the chance to put in new batteries. So I will another 5 ½ hous of heat, until then we should be in the sun an the cold will not be so bad anymore. Half an hour later we leave the tent. Two young Frenchmen are also on the way up to summit with together with their Sherpa. Now we are 5 going for summit. Camp 3 is at 7600 meters. We see how other alpinist just left camp 3. The sun is warming us up. Finally! Paul, an guide from Chamonix offers us hot tea. A boon. Thankfully we also take the second cup of tea before we move on. There is quite some traffic up here. We move on over the Yellow Band. A rock step belayed with fix ropes. The climbing is not difficult. I just hang a sling with a carabiner in the rope, to belay, climb the passages, that’s more fun instead of lift up at the ropes. We passed most of the alpinists at the end of the Yellow Band. Our two colleagues from Bolivia, Elio and Bernardo, are far ahead, also Sophie and her climbing Sherpa. The mountain is ski stick terrain. I am happy to have my carbon sticks with me. They are much more useful than a axe. After a right traverse we move over a cornice over the summit ice field. This runs endlessly. I remember the words of Elisabeth Hawley in Kathmandu. She said: „ If you can`t see Everest, you are not on Summit!“

Funny that exactly now these words of a 80 years old lady come into my mind, which has never in her life climbed a peak of 8000 meters, but records all expeditions thoroughly. It still takes sometime before we finally see Everest! We stay on summit for about 10 minutes, for sure not longer. Quickly some pictures and then down again. Step by step.

This was my second peak over 8000 meters within 18 days. I already felt after we left that I was not so fresh anymore like on Shisha Pangma. But I am in good spirits. I was a nice mountain. Also all the people which we met here. Different from what is always told. Everybody was very helpful, everybody helped each other where he could. We offered tea of chocolate, new arriving people were helped to set up their tent. Sure, not all were alpinists. Sure, the route is technically less demanding. Though, the summit is 8201 meters high. Everybody has his own goal. If you start from 7600 meter to reach the summit, if you need 10 or 20 hours: It doesn’t matter. Each of them bring his very own experience back home. This is what counts. For myself I will have good memories from Cho Oyu. Now I am little bit tired. Two peaks stuck in my bones. We try to get to Lhasa, to get some rest. And if the Chinese allow us, we will drive to Everest base camp. Maybe the luck remains faithful to us.

 

Ueli Steck - ascent 6800 Meter



Ueli Steck before summit


Cho Oyu 8201m



Don and Ueli on the way down after summit, 7000 m



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