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No success on Cholatse Northface |
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Monday, 23 April 2012 16:36 |
We studied the face and we came along that the face looked even better than last year: much more snow. But what we had to realize that the snow was pretty loosen and the whole face was overlayed with a small shift of snow. Until 6 am we fought on our way hoping that it would become better. After the entry of the snow field also the couloir was loosen so that we finally got stuck. The rocks are covered with snow, offering no support. We had to give up. Under these circumstances it doesn’t work. And it becomes also pretty dangerous.
We are back in Pheriche checking out new plans. For sure this year the northfaces present themselves in bad conditions. Last year we were one month earlier on Cholatse Northface and we found perfect conditions. We were there just before the typical spring weather starts. This means that it snows every day a little bit. This snow cumulates. And exactly this snow remains lying in the Northfaces.
Again we have learned something. The important thing is, that we have tried. But it is also important to realize, when it is not possible to do something.
Last November a Korean rope team fell on Cholatse. You should never underestimate these faces. Although I have climbed the Northface of Cholatse already twice, it makes me realize even more how lucky I was, to find good conditions. And if I think what great firn I found last year on Shisha Pangma Southface, I was very lucky.
Exactly this is the challenge on mixed faces. To be at the right time on the right place and then take your chance.
This time it seems not to be the right moment to climb Northfaces in Khumbu. Freddie and I have decided to have a rest tomorrow and to analyse the situation and see what we can do. Since I have arrived in Khumbu I have not had a rest. I have been on the road every day.
Last years climb through Cholatse Northface seemed so self-evident. This years conditions recall us how cool it was!
We don’t give up. There is a lot to do here in Khumbu Valley. We will find something else for sure.
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