To the gallery
02.11.2004
In Spring 1961 the 6814m high peak was climbed for the first time via the South East Ridge. The team consisted of 17 climbers from New Zealand, England and the United States. Only 4 of this team actually reached the peak, the difficulty on the ridge being above the 5th grade.
Today, the whole climb is equipped with fixed ropes and can therefore be offered as a commercial expedition. I was, upon my arrival on the 24th of October, faced with this fact. 24 Expeditions had found their way to the base camp! Luckily most were already on their way out.
After the obligatory ceremony of the Putcha with a Lama, Lapka, my Sherpa and I set up Camp 1 and 2. November 2; After a two week break in Pangboche, I left the Base Camp in order to check Camp 2 via the ridge. To be able to move faster, I left my pack in the Base Camp. My goal was to be back by dinner time. Our cook was fabulous and I didn't want to miss out on a meal!
After 7 hours of great climbing I was already on the peak. What a view, 360° of Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu….a pity I cant stay longer, my Gore Tex jacket is not warm enough for the minus 25° shown on the thermometer. As planned, I arrive back in Base Camp in time for dinner. A special treat for all, we get cake and saki for dessert.
In the meantime, my friends have arrived at Base Camp. On November 4, we all climb towards Camp1 and on November 6, Im on the peak for the second time. My congratulations to Anna Mattei, Renate Schmid, Romolo Nottaris and Carlo Spinelli to their impressive climb of the peak!
A great experience for all!!!
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